Home Forums General Discussion Help with my new equipment!

This topic contains 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  kiteboardbudd 1 month ago.

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  • #14442
    Douglas Costanzo
    Douglas Costanzo
    Forum Member

    Hi, guys.

    I am looking for some help with my new gear.

    I have a D800 and a 14-24 2.8 and I bought, from NN, a NN4, the RD16 rotator, the EZ level and the Nadir adapter.

    Although I tried a few shots with the instructions I had (6 shots +30 / 6 shots -30 / N + Z), when assembling in PT GUI, I have always one part on the 360 missing, with no capture of a segment, specially if it was at a close range. After that, I tried the same with 8 shots and it worked.

    My first question is, although every website that explains how to use the D800 + 14-24 states that it just needs 6 shots, it just worked with me with 8. Something wrong in my shots?

    I am seriously thinking about buying the 10.5 DX for this set, as, working with HDR, I am going to shot to many frames for one single composition. Second question is, would be fine to work with this lens, the D800 and the NN4 rotator?

    I would really appreciate any help from the members.

    Best Regards
    Douglas Costanzo
    http://www.fdfotografia.com.br

    #14447

    Sam Rohn
    IVRPA Director Member webmaster

    FX Nikon body like D800 works fine for shooting 360 spherical panoramas with Nikkor 14-24mm rectilinear zoom, you may be having errors where images seem to disappear in stitching app due to lack of overlap info needed to generate control points in those images, like part of a wall or sky that is mostly blank, if this happens try positioning those image by hand in the stitcher and mask out any bits that do overlap other images near edges

    14-24mm is a really great lens, but, i would normally only use that lens for panos on a really important museum type interior that had the detail to need it or if i needed more detail at distance in an exterior, or print project etc

    Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye (with lens hood cut off) works great on D800 for 360° panos, and much easier shooting, only 4 around at 0° is needed for a complete sphere, this makes life much easier especially if you are bracketing, it gives very good image quality with a manageable workflow, 14mm rect lens shooting 14 images (without bracketing) per pano vs 10.5 fisheye at 4 per pano vs what clients are willing to pay per pano, etc… ;)

    here are examples of my own work w 10.5mm fisheye lens+body

    http://www.samrohn.com/360-panorama/barcelona-skyline-360-vr-panorama/

    http://www.samrohn.com/360-panorama/smith-wollensky-nyc-360-virtual-tour/

    there is a brand new Nikkor 8-15mm fisheye zoom which i have been testing the last couple weeks, and i so far like it better than the older 10.5mm fisheye, better resolution at 12mm and better detail especially near the edges, and no need for hacksaw mod on 10.5 lens hood ;)

    http://amzn.to/2vK2JTL

    with a single row fisheye shooting pattern with 10.5 or 8-15 like i described above, you can also use a much lighter pano head and lens ring combo like nodal ninja R1 or R10 with appropriate lens ring for your lens, this is also much faster to deploy and use vs NN4 or other multi row head

    R Series Heads

    sam

    Sam Rohn :: New York City
    360° Panoramic Photography :: www.samrohn.com
    Location Scout :: www.nylocations.com

    #14458

    kiteboardbudd
    Forum Member

    ive used many rigs for many purposes, but its always nice to be able to minimize shots for whatever setup u got. best trick i know to do this is first dial in nodal point really good. then experiment with rotation+tilt+twist to figure absolute min shots needed for sphere. note those angles down, or mark your head/rotator. then in an ideal setting (good static high contrast texture in all directions), shoot with your ideal min shot angles first, then shoot a bunch more at different angles to end up with LOTS of overlap everywhere.

    use autopano/panotools/ptgui to find lots of control points in every direction (no bare spots), then spend time getting alignment perfect in ptgui. then delete all source images except your first few ideal min num of shots. save as stitching template.

    now u can shoot perfectly stitched spheres, with minimal overlap.

    one more thing. manually fine tunning lens settings (focal length, sensor size, multiplyer) is very important.

    -budd

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